Backpacking Classmates

We were looking for a challenging outdoor adventure, but we knew we didn’t exactly have the experience to do it safely on our own.  Once we decided on our destination, the Grand Canyon, we began researching guided hikes and camping.

The Grand Canyon

The Grand Canyon is a World Heritage Site which encompasses 1,218,375 acres and lies on the Colorado Plateau in northwestern Arizona.  Our goal was to experience the Canyon to the fullest; that can only be done by hiking to the very bottom.

The Grand Canyon National Park offers a variety of choices to experience the inside of the Canyon; guided tours, mule trips, river trips, hiking and camping.  If you are interested in backpacking and camping on your own, you must acquire a backcountry permit.  The permits are very challenging to obtain due to the volume of requests, but the organizations conducting the guided hikes all have access to those permits.

Grand Canyon Field Institute

Our research led us to the Grand Canyon Field Institute, a program of the Grand Canyon Association (GCA), which focuses on educating park visitors about the cultural and natural history of the Grand Canyon.  The classes specialize in various topics such as cultural education, photography, wilderness, women, family classes and much more.  The term class is used to emphasize education, but this is unlike any class you have taken before.  There is a class for everyone; from beginner backpackers to experienced outdoor enthusiasts.  The institute was easily accessible via phone and email, and was very courteous while assisting us to choose the class that was best suited for us.  We decided on Introductory Backpacking: Colorado River.  It was exactly what we were looking for; adventurous, educational, and challenging.

South Rim Trail Map

South Rim Lodging

After arriving at Phoenix Airport on a Wednesday evening, we rented the smallest, cheapest car available and drove 3.5 hours up to the Grand Canyon Park that same night.  Since we had arrived in the evening we weren’t able to see anything along the unlit highway; however we could easily feel the change in altitude and temperature during our ascent.  With complete darkness surrounding us the foot might have been a little heavy on the throttle, because we soon found flashing lights behind us.  The officer advised us to slow down so we are able spot the sleeping elk in the middle of the road.  That is important information you may want to consider when driving to the Grand Canyon.

Luckily we didn’t see any elk sleeping on the highway, but once we arrived at Maswik Lodge on the Canyon Rim, we did have to maneuver our way around them roaming on the local streets.  Maswik Lodge was reasonably priced (about $90USD-$120 per night) considering it is located inside the park and only a 5 minute walk to the South Rim.  It was clean and comfortable, but far from a luxury lodge or hotel.

Introductory Backpacking

The next morning we were scheduled to be at the Grand Canyon Field Institute at 8:00am for an all-day Introductory Backpacking class.  Our instructor and tour guide, Melanie Miles, was perfect for the job.  Not only does she have many years of wilderness experience, but she is very familiar with the ecological history of the Grand Canyon’s formation and shared many hidden treasures with us throughout the trails.

The class was made up of four diverse students.  Everyone was new to backpacking and we all socialized rather easily despite our age differences (two classmates were retirees.)  During our 1-day course we learned about the history and geological splendor of the Grand Canyon, how to pack minimally and strategically, appropriate clothing, adequate food, water rationing, and a few safety precautions.  The most informative was the actual packing list review.  As first timers, we brought too much stuff than we needed or could fit in our packs.  Not only was there too much, but it would have added unnecessary weight; a topic that is most important when backpacking.  The instructor spent time with each person reviewing what items to bring and what items are not practical for the trip.  Each student weighed their pack to make sure it was manageable for the duration of the entire trip.  The institute also provides equipment rental.  Aracely and I both rented hiking sticks and Aracely even rented a backpack that was more than suitable.  After downsizing our packing list several times our final pack weight including food was: Jason 42lbs, Aracely 36lbs.  It’s important to note that as a couple we were able to minimize our pack weight by distributing a single tent and camping stove between the two of us.  After the classroom instruction, the group was led to a beautiful scenic view, Schoscone Point, along the South Rim.  We all looked in awe and took pictures of what we were soon about to conquer.

Camping on the South Rim

That evening we chose less expensive accommodations by utilizing the park’s campgrounds.  At only $18USD per campsite, we saved compared to the lodge costs.  During sunset, we set up our tent in a reasonably sized site, near the public wash house.  This provided us a short walk to access restrooms and sinks, making the night’s tasks a bit easier.   The temperature on the Rim was about 50 degrees Fahrenheit during the day.  Somewhat chilly, but you must remember you are 7,000 feet above sea level.  In the evenings the temperature drops significantly.  We cooked dinner, washed up and laid our heads to rest, for we knew the challenge ahead.  That night, the temperature dropped to 20 degrees Fahrenheit.  Fortunately, we were encased in sleeping bags fit to withstand those temperatures.

South Rim Kaibab Trail

South Rim Kaibab Trail

Early Friday morning we regrouped with Melanie and the others and began our descent into the Canyon via the Kaibab Trail from the South Rim.  Our destination was Bright Angel Campground, which is located next to the Colorado River.  The 7.5 miles of switchbacks, unforgiving terrain and breathtaking views took 7 hours to complete.  Although the hike was physically challenging for both Aracely and I, it is still possible for many to accomplish.  Our group included a female in her 60s who carried her own backpack and was able to cope with the difficult terrain.  Our guide, Melanie, was very good at managing the different intensity levels of the team.  Rest stops were made as needed, most often along designated areas with public restrooms that were surprisingly clean and adequate.  One of the most amazing scenic rest stops is Ooh Aah Point, which is approximately 780 feet from the South Rim.  Here, you can take wonderful photos sitting on a ledge overlooking the entire Canyon.  As we continued to hike down, Melanie would explain the different vegetations we encountered and pointed out the different layers of rocks that make up the Grand Canyon’s walls.  The further we descended the Kaibab Trail the more the temperature increased.  Approximately every 1,000 feet in altitude the Grand Canyon weather temperature can change 3-6 degrees Fahrenheit.  It is much more efficient to wear layers of clothes that can be easily removed as you become warmer.

Aracely Descending the Kaibab Trail

Grand Canyon Weather

Carefully consider the time of year you plan your hike.  A hike during the summer can begin in 75 degree Fahrenheit weather and finish at 110 degrees once you arrive at the bottom.

Mules

Throughout the trail you will encounter packs of mules making their way to or from the bottom of the Grand Canyon.  The mules carry passengers, luggage or even supplies from Phantom Ranch (located at the bottom of the Canyon.)  Hikers have the option of a mule carrying their luggage, which will then be waiting for them when they reach Phantom Ranch.  These individuals only need to carry enough water and food for the hike down.  It was also shocking to see how these mules were able to safely carry passengers while remaining sure footed along the trail.  The mule packs create large crevices along the trails that require constant maintenance.  Melanie informed us that at one point the park had considered abolishing the mules from the trails, but it was decided that the mules played a significant role in the history of the Grand Canyon.  Another fascinating encounter was with the adventure runners that run the trails from South Rim to North Rim across the entire Canyon in a single day.

Two Backpackers in the Grand Canyon

Bright Angel Campground

When we arrived at Bright Angel Campground we were desperate to remove our bags and rest.  The Grand Canyon weather was now a comfortable 85 degrees Fahrenheit.  A thorough cleaning in the sink was well deserved to remove the coat of sand on our skin.  Everyone set up their tents within a group campsite that provided benches and storage for our food.  The storage containers were made of metal to prevent the mule deer from intruding.

Phantom Ranch

Later that evening we visited the famous Phantom Ranch; the only lodging facility below the Canyon Rim.  This place has a very cool backpacker atmosphere; everyone is very friendly and social.  The grounds include dormitories and rustic cabins, which can be reserved while spending several days on the Canyon floor.  Much of the lodging includes showers and restrooms.  Also popular is the Phantom Ranch Canteen where meals, beverages, and snacks are available.  With reservations, you can participate in family style dining in a log cabin setting.  And yes, the beverages do include beer.  Just remember the more you drink, the more weight the mules have to carry out.  The Canyon floor can only be accessed by foot, mule or the river.  Everything you eat and dispose of is transported out by way of mule.  After some socializing, we retreated to our tents for a good night’s rest, one that would be considerably warmer than the previous night.

Lunch Above the Colorado River

Indian Granary & Havasu Falls

The following morning we had an exploratory hike to a great lookout point above the river where we had lunch. We also went exploring to a 1,000 year old Native Indian granary.  Melanie explained the different food storing techniques the Native Indians used.  The group learned so much from Melanie during our hikes which combined education and adventure.  Another option available to the group was a trek to Havasu Falls.  These waterfalls are described as having a bluish green tint to the water and are located above the campgrounds.

Bright Angel Trail

South Rim Bright Angel Trail

After two nights of camping at Bright Angel, we began the hike ascending from the Canyon floor.  This time we would climb out via the Bright Angel Trail.

Indian Gardens Campground

Four and half miles later we arrived at Indian Gardens Campground for one last night out in the wilderness.

A river runs through the campground which provided great scenery during the hike to the campsite.  Indian Gardens also serves as a resting stop for the mule herds between Phantom Ranch and the South Rim.

Sunset at Plateau Point

Plateau Point

That evening, we hiked another 1.5 miles to witness the panoramic views at Plateau Point.  During our walk we encountered mule deer willing to pose for photos.  The mule deer just couldn’t compare with the most brilliant sunset against the red rock of the Canyon.  We stood in awe as the rock glowed with orange and red tints.

The Climb Out

On the last morning at 7:00am, we began our final hike back to the South Rim.  The trail from Indian Gardens consists of endless switchbacks with steep stair-like rocks. It was the most strenuous leg of our hike.  Determined to beat the class record, we left our group behind and pushed ourselves to climb 4.5 miles in under 2.5 hours.  We felt exhausted, but extremely accomplished.  It is advisable to hike at a pace that is manageable based on your physical condition.  For Aracely and I, it was great a challenge, and an unforgettable experience.

Aracely Next to Giant Cactus

After returning our equipment we began our drive back to Phoenix.  Daylight provided us the opportunity to see the beauty of the landscape we missed on our initial drive to the Grand Canyon.  Taking a photo next to a giant cactus was just another highlight of the trip and it was a perfect ending to our outdoor adventure.

Other great hikes you might enjoy from the Americas:

• Hiking Ciudad Perdida (the Lost City) in Colombia
• Hiking to Dinosaur Fossil Footprints in Bolivia

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Main Terraces of Ciudad Perdida

Within one month of my decision to move to Cali, Colombia, I knew I wanted to hike to Ciudad Perdida.  I found a friend who wanted to do the 5 night, 6 day jungle trek with me, we planned a trip for January 2024, and I started looking for flights to the nearby city of Santa Marta.

After she arrived to Cali, we prepared to leave for Santa Marta.  We packed our backpacks full of “just the essentials”.  Then we took a lap around my apartment.  Suddenly, I didn’t feel so confident in our survival skills for 6 days – honestly I questioned our ability to make it through day one with these backpacks on our shoulders.

However, we did make it, and emerged with a stunningly unique and memorable experience that I will never forget.  Yes, 6 days is a big commitment for the consistently on-the-move traveler, but this is one experience you cannot afford to miss.

Ciudad Perdida (The Lost City)

A pre-Colombian settlement of the Tayrona people, Ciudad Perdida is located at the start of the Buritaca River in the Sierra Nevada Mountains surrounding the city of Santa Marta, Colombia.  Discovered in the 1970s, the site itself features intricate staircases, meticulously built terraces, a complex system of pathways, and gorgeous views of the surrounding landscapes.  The only way to see Ciudad Perdida is to hike there (or find yourself a private helicopter, I guess…), so research the various tour companies to find the one that best suits your needs.  We decided on TurCol, short for Turismo Colombiano, based on a recommendation from friends, and paid $500,000 Colombian Pesos ($275 USD) per person for the trip.

1 of 8 River Crossings During Trek

Put On Your Walking Shoes

The trek takes 6 days to complete.  Although you can complete it in 5 days, I recommend the 6-day pace so you can take time to enjoy the journey.  Each day you will hike between 4 to 6 hours, with frequent enough breaks for water, snacks and fresh fruit.  While the trek is filled with hills, river crossings, and rocky paths, the hike is completely manageable for the average, generally fit person.  Prior to my trip I did not do anything extra to prepare in terms of physical readiness, and I felt fine the whole time.  There will be hills and hard times, but they always end with a gorgeous view, campsite, or a delicious snack!

A Typical Campsite During our Trek

And You Thought Hammocks Were Comfortable

Each of the 3 pre-established (with rough “kitchens” and bathrooms/running water) campsites is equipped with either bunk beds or hammocks for your sleeping enjoyment.  Initially, I thought this would be an easy, efficient and fun way to enjoy some nature along the way.  However, by night three of sleeping like a banana in a hammock and waking up quite chilly, since apparently it’s cold in the mountains at night (whoops!), I felt a bit differently.  Overall, the sleeping accommodations were adequate for being in the jungle, but I haven’t looked at a hammock the same way since.  My friend and I had ditched our sleeping bags at the last minute, and while I didn’t regret the extra space and my lighter backpack, this choice definitely affected our sleeping at night.  Depending on your own preferences, you may want to consider a sleeping bag, although most tour companies do provide blankets at night, so in general I would not recommend bringing one as it is not worth the added weight to your backpack.

Moss Covered Staircase in Depths of Ciudad Perdida

Don’t Leave Home Without Your…

Sturdy walking shoes – preferably ones that you can wear right into the water during river crossings!  Flashlight/head lamp. Dry/warm clothes for the nights – preferably kept in plastic bags to keep them dry.  Swimsuit (lots of natural pools to swim in along the way!).  Bug spray – with lots of DEET.  Sunscreen.  Good paperback book (lots of free time in the afternoons/evenings).  Lightweight snacks (guides provide fresh fruit, but you will want your own things too).  Water bottle or Camelbak.Yellow fever shot.  Quick-dry clothes – in the dense, humid jungle if it gets wet once, it’s staying wet…for 6 days.  Solid sense of humor.

Hiking Buddies

Nothing like a physically, mentally, and emotionally challenging experience to reveal people’s true sides and on this trip, we got to know one another quickly.  By the last night we were sitting around the campsite exchanging a few beers, email addresses, future travel plans, and promises to remember this incredible shared experience.  From the two university women from England and the adorably endearing British police officers to the French-Australian couple and happy-go-lucky man from Baranquilla, Colombia, our travel group included people from all over the world.  For 6 days we shared our stories, our accomplishments, our struggles, and our water breaks.  Along the way I kept reminding myself to enjoy the journey in case the end really wasn’t that cool (Spoiler Alert: It is), but being with this group of people made it easy to enjoy the whole experience.

My Arrival to Ciudad Perdida (The Lost City)

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• Discover Salento, Colombia

In the end, I have no better advice than just go for it.  I had never been hiking for longer than 6 consecutive hours prior to my trek to Ciudad Perdida, and I came out happily alive and in shock of what I was able to accomplish.  Schedule a trip, take your backpack out of the closet, and get going. The Lost City awaits.

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Cerro Negro has erupted frequently since its first eruption. One unusual aspect of several eruptions has been the emission of ash from the top of the cone, while lava erupts from fractures at the base. – Wikipedia

Trekking to Volcano Cerro Negro in Nicaragua

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View Of Grand Canyon

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On day one we took a microbus from Sucre to a nearby small town where our group of 7 hopped into a “camion,” the only local transportation available to the town of Chataquila where we began our hike.

Packing in the Camion, Our Local Transportation

Our first leg of the hike involved walking down an ancient Inca Trail.  This was a great workout for the calf muscles as each step required balancing on loose rocks of varying sizes while lugging the weight of our backpacks.  We hiked a total of 7 hours on the first day which included some tough climbing in the dark.

Walking The Inca Trail in Bolivia

The first half of our second day included visiting the “Devil’s Throat” waterfall and walking through the town of Maragua located in the crater of the same name.  It was a total of 5 hours from our campsite to Ninu Mayu, where we explored the ancient dinosaur footprints.

Dinosaur Footprints

The hike to the dinosaur site was exhausting.  We enjoyed a great fresh lunch and quick siesta before continuing for another 3 hours to our second campsite.

Siesta at the Dinosaur Footprints

We arrived just before dark and set up our tents under millions of stars and a full moon.  Our group enjoyed a delicious vegetarian dinner as we got to know each other and rested from the strenuous hike.

Enjoying Dinner, Always Delicious Vegetarian Dinners

The final day involved only a 3-hour hike to what seemed like the most remote bus stop in the world.  It’s probably not even appropriate to call it a bus stop, considering we are riding in camiones.  We road in the camion with the locals for 3.5 hours back to Sucre.  Along the way, we saw many farmers working their land and shepherds herding.

Farmers Working the Fields

Condortrekkers also offers 3-day, 2-day and 1-day treks.   For more information on what they offer, check out their website http://www.condortrekkers.org or their fan page by clicking here.

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Sunsrise at Torres del Paine Lookout Point

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Jason and other hikers on the trail to Campamento Chileno

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View of Cordillera Paine at Torres del Paine National Park, Patagonia Chile

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Foxgloves are also called Witches’ Gloves, Dead Men’s Bells, Fairy’s Glove, Gloves of Our Lady, Bloody Fingers, Virgin’s Glove, Fairy Caps, Folk’s Glove, and Fairy Thimbles. These are biennial plants and are tall, slender perennials at 2-5′ in height and just 1-2′ wide. It is a very statuesque plant. It has numerous tubular flowers blooming on a spike, ranging in color from purple to white. Foxglove flowers appear in the summer months.  The flowers are bell-shaped and tubular, 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 inches long, flattened above, inflated beneath, crimson outside above and paler beneath, the lower lip furnished with long hairs inside and marked with numerous dark crimson spots, each surrounded with a white border.  ~ Iflorist.co.uk

Foxglove Flower in Torres del Paine National Park, Patagonia Chile

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The ice field of the lake can be seen right after full circuit trekkers overcome the Jonh Gardner Pass when traveling from east to west. Those who only trek the W can see Glacier Grey from Refugio Grey Camp Site. However, the best view is from a look out point located at Los Guardas Campsite where this picture was taken.

Glacier Grey Ice Field at Torres del Paine National Park Patagonia, Chile

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This photo is of Glacier Los Perros near Los Perros Camp Site. It was taken during very high winds where we had to sit on our bellies to not be blow into the freezing lake.

Glacier Los Perros On Full Circuit Trek At Torres Del Paine National Park

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Sun Setting On Patagonia Landscape in Torres Del Paine National Park

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Hairy Donkey In Central Andes Ecuadaor

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Volcano El Hoyo, Leon, Nicaragua

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Red Rock Canyon National Park, Las Vegas, NV

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Wax Palms of Valle de Cocora

Located in the heart of the Colombian coffee region and tucked between Pereira and Armenia rests Salento, a small and pleasant town which offers visitors a warm relaxing setting.  If you’re making your way south to Cali from Medellin or Bogota, or traveling north on the reverse route, Salento is an ideal place to take a break from the bustling cities of Colombia.  Relax in town, or venture out to Valle de Cocora for some outdoor trekking adventure where you will see the largest palm trees in the world.

Aracely in Salento, Colombia

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Salento’s most popular street is lined with artisan shops, fondas (Colombian cantinas), and local restaurants serving typical Colombian dishes.  By 9:00pm, most shops close and restaurants are only serving quick dishes of chorizo and empanadas.  You will only find fondas and bars opened later in the evening.

Hang off the side of an original Jeep Willy during an exciting 30 minute ride to Valle de Cocora, a valley located in the central Andean mountains. Valle de Cocora is home of the wax palm (Ceroxylon quindiuense), a Colombian national symbol and the tallest palm tree in the world.  Since the implementation of law 61 in 1985 the palm has been a legally protected species, but still faces many threats of extinction. The wax palm has an extremely slow growth and can live up to a hundred years.

La Montana in Valle de Cocora

From the drop off point there are various hiking routes that take its visitors through rolling hills of green landscape and winding shallow rivers.  The most popular route is to Acaime, a rest point where you can enjoy a traditional snack from the area called Aguapanela or cane juice and cheese for $3,000 pesos or $1.50 USD, all while admiring the beautiful humming birds flying around you.  From Acaime, most visitors will hike the La Montana route back to the park’s entrance. La Montana provides some of the most beautiful views of the of the valley and its majestic palms.

For Budget Travelers

When you arrive at the parks entrance you will have several options to tour the area.  Avoid horseback, and guided tours and instead take a photo of the large wooden map and use it for reference while hiking on your own.  The trails are well marked and you shouldn’t have any problems finding your way.

Click here to see more PHOTOS of Salento.

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Laguna de Alegría

While staying in Alegría, El Salvador it’s necessary to visit Laguna de Alegría, a green hot spring fed sulfur lake inside the crater of volcano Tecapa that exudes mysticism.  From Alegría’s town center you can easily walk 45 minutes in sandals along a cobblestone road or hire a guide to take you on a 2-hour hike up and over the crater’s ridge then down to the lakes edge.  Of course, Aracely and I opted for the hike.  Our hostel recommended a local 21 year old to guide us with complete confidence.

We woke up the next morning and ate pupusas for breakfast, packed 2 liters of water and met our guide Tulio outside the hostel at 9:00am.  The hostel owner advised us that we could trek in sandals since the hike was brief and easy.  We didn’t wear boots, but we did choose something sturdier than sandals.  Aracely and I both strapped on our Teva hiking sandals instead and dressed in shorts and t-shirts.  We were told that at the foot of the lake was a tienda selling snacks and drinks, so it wasn’t necessary to pack any food.

As we walked away from the hostel, Tulio, our guide, began educating us on the history of Volcano Tecapa.  Coffee farms were plenty and we sucked on a few of the red ripe beans for energy, similar to the ways of the coffee harvesters.  The hike began slowly on easily traversed trails through coffee farms and then prairie landscapes as we neared the top of the volcano.  One of the most beautiful sites along the trail was the constant bright color from flower bushes and trees.  Once along the crater’s ridge we had several views down on the town of Alegría.  We crossed a radio tower patrolled by several military men and then turned left down into the crater via a vague trail.  It was 10:30am and our journey was about to begin.

Flowers on Volcano Tecapa

We seemed to be following a trail for the first 30 minutes down the lush crater walls.  After that we were literally skiing down steep dirt slopes.  It was peculiar considering we were told we could hike in sandals.  A few slips on our butts and hands and the leisurely stroll quickly turned into an extremely difficult hike with no trails.  Our guide led the way with his dull wailing machete.  I laughed a few times and Aracely smiled; we were thrilled by the idea that this was a more challenging hike than we initially imagined.

An hour after we descended into the crater Tulio alerts us that we are off the trail we intended to take.  He explained that the farmers must have covered the trail with brush or the trail had naturally overgrown.  I guess it’s not traveled much during the low season.  No worries, we were with a local guide.  We moved on searching for the trail that would lead us to the crater lake.  All volcano craters aren’t created equal and this one was covered in thick forest, steep rock walls and was of significant size.  The crater walls were filled with v-shaped valleys, so in order to traverse around the crater in a circle you needed to hike large ‘W’ patterns along the crater walls to avoid the steep cliffs.  During our search we passed grazing horses and cows.  It’s hard to image how thick the forest was considering I just mentioned animals were grazing, but I assure you, I was as stunned as you are reading this.  We continued hiking and it soon became apparent to Aracely and I that Tulio was lost.  Our smiles disappeared, our stomachs growled of hunger and we began to question our guides’ next steps.

It was 12:30pm; we should have arrived at the lake at 11:00am.  We had finished 1 liter of water already, not expecting to hike long.  The trek had become so dangerous that for the first time I was scared not only for Aracely, but for myself.  I couldn’t handle the feeling of being scared and I started to become very frustrated.  Tulio climbed 10 meters up a tree to orient himself with the crater.  He was wearing a pair of jeans and worn through Vans and only carried 1 liter of water.  Looking for the power lines from the radio station that stood atop the crater, Tulio shouted to us that it was only 30 minutes to the power lines and then we can start over on the correct trail.  We faithfully followed his lead, traversing the crater’s walls to the power lines.

I stepped on a log that collapsed like a booby trap and covered my boot in termite infested wood dust.  A black scorpion grazed my hand as I cleared some dirt off a rock for gripping.  Tulio said we were lucky the snakes weren’t out today, because they are extremely poisonous; I was pleased to know that the scorpions were not.  Our Teva hiking sandals were not meant for this hike.  We constantly had to remove them to shake out the dirt and rocks caught between our feet and the sandal’s bottom.  I haven’t figured out what these overly engineered sandals are designed for, besides walking around town.  Even in rivers they seem to trap every little pebble.  Long pants would have also been a great benefit, since thorns gave us cuts and scraps on our legs.  More important than all those luxuries is the need for food and water.  My energy was draining quickly.  We hadn’t eaten in over 5 hours and we stopped drinking our remaining water for fear of not getting out of the forest before the sun set at 5:30pm.

An hour after we began to look for power lines, Tulio, using his cellular phone, called the hostel for advice.  Aracely listened in on the conversation.  He was clearly lost and they couldn’t help him much considering he didn’t know where he was.  I feared Tulio was still trying to get to the lake.  At this point, I wanted out of the forest and didn’t care about the lake at all.  Tulio knew we were upset and he was too.  He kept quiet.  Most frustrating for us was the fact that Tulio did not know this mountain.  I asked Aracely to explain to Tulio that we wanted off the mountain as quickly as possible.  Unfortunately, he was still trying to get us down the crater, so we quickly switched directions and headed straight up.  After 15 minutes we ran into thick bush that we couldn’t get through.  We backtracked, then went up again in a different direction.  This time we scaled a rock wall that tested my rock climbing ability.  I made it, paused and told Aracely we are not going to do anything like that again.  It was too dangerous and getting hurt on this mountain would only make the situation worse.

We continuously ran into obstacles and couldn’t climb straight up out of the crater.  Tulio received a phone call from the hostel and they recommended he circle back around the inside of the crater, from where we began and search for a road the locals use connecting the towns of Alegría and Santiago de Maria.  That meant it would take another 2 hours possibly to go back in the same direction we came from.  We began to make the journey.  It was now 2:00pm and we were becoming mentally drained.  The hike back was just as difficult, because we couldn’t find the path we had cut initially.  I was carrying Aracely’s backpack at this point and we kept the two water bottles in the side pockets.  During a muddy ascent up a steep wall, one of the bottles fell out.  I decided to take off the backpack and attempt to recover it.  Once I reached the bottle, I realized I needed both hands to scale back up the muddy slope.  Tulio had climbed half way down to where I was so I threw him the bottle.  It was a bad choice.  I should have put the bottle in my shirt.  My throw was short and the bottle fell again, this time farther, to unknown bottom.  Tulio adamantly offered to retrieve it, but I insisted he not.  I know he felt bad about the situation, but it wasn’t worth putting our selves in danger again.  The bottle stayed.  As I climbed back up and grabbed the backpack again I realized it had an 8-inch slice through the main compartment.  The thorns must have cut right through it as it scraped the hedges we crawled under.

Merlin Edith (a local child) on Volcano Tecapa

After hiking another hour we reached a road!  It was a great feeling of relief and a sure sign we weren’t spending the night on the volcano.  Confidently, we marched down the road to what I believed was going to eventually be the lake.  We came to a few crossroads and our guide hesitantly chose a direction and we went with it.  After only 30 minutes walking along the cobblestone winding road, our guide began to knock on the metals doors of some rural dwellings.  To help put it into perspective, these were extremely primitive huts where peasant families lived on the volcano surrounded by thick forest.  The doors granted access to their property and were sometimes far from the actual house.  There were no answers to our knocks.  We were still lost.

We walked for several kilometers up and down steep grades, passing locals carrying water and wood to their homes on cattle and horses.  I had reached total exhaustion and sat on the road for a rest.  It was clear to me that we needed to collect fruit for the night.  I asked Aracely to communicate to Tulio our need for food and water for the evening.  By his reaction, it appeared that Tulio still felt confident we were going to make it out before dusk.  It was 3:30pm and the sun would be setting in 2 hours.  Our guide stopped as we neared some drum playing in the distance.  Seizing the opportunity to rest, I sat on the road again.  This is not a road traveled by vehicles so there is no risk of being run over.  After speaking with some locals passing by Tulio informed us that we were close to a neighboring city of Alegría, named Santiago de Maria.  Aracely asked if there were buses in Santiago de Maria that we could take to Alegría.  The local responded yes.  This was it… a way out.  As the locals left, Aracely and I were already walking to the next town.  Tulio halted us and explained that the drums in the background came from the homes of bandits.  This was a gut wrenching feeling.  He gave us the choice of walking through the neighborhoods of bandits, risking losing our camcorder and SLR camera and our safety, or heading in the other direction towards what should be Alegría.  Aracely was willing to make the short hike to Santiago de Maria to ensure we escape the volcano before dusk, but I wasn’t comfortable risking our safety and equipment.  I would rather sleep on the volcano than knowingly risk her safety.  Tulio didn’t want to take us the route of the bandits either and was relieved we decided to return in the direction we came.

As we walked uphill heading to one of the first crossroads we encountered while hiking on the road, Aracely and I continually fell behind Tulio, struggling to maintain enough energy.  After passing fruit trees earlier in the hike, I couldn’t believe there was none to be found when we needed it most.  We arrived at the crossroad and headed down a new route; this time through a locals property with their permission.  She explained that Alegría was about 3 kilometers away and a difficult walk.  A hint of hope began to emerge amongst us.  Tulio was able to find a local to provide him some water, but unfortunately for Aracely and I, we couldn’t risk drinking the local water for fear of getting ill.  It was 4:00pm and Tulio shouts to us that we have arrived.  Arrived at what, we thought.  The area seemed no different than the last 2 hours, with no town in sight.  More specifically, he knew the road, and knew we would make it off the volcano before dusk.  Relieved, we all dropped the large rocks we had been carrying for defense.  30 minutes later, we arrived at the entrance to the crater lake and the tienda for drinks and snacks.  We ordered two sugar drinks and three waters to share between the three of us.  My body changed immediately.  You gain a strong understanding of the importance of food and water during extreme activity.  After regaining strength and mental motivation we told Tulio we had no desire to visit the lake today, we just wanted to get home.

Laguna de Alegría in Volcano Tecapa

Along the road back to Alegría, we purchased three oranges from a local girl and savored the sweetness of comfort.  Comfort knowing our challenges were done for the day and no one was injured. We arrived home at 4:45pm, 45 minutes before dusk.  We would return the next day to experience the sulfur lake, known as Laguna de Alegría, minus the 7.5-hour hike.

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Sulfur Lake in Santa Ana Volcano Crater

Santa Ana was our second city we traveled to in El Salvador and it is also their second largest city.  As we arrived to the city, it was clear that buses handle most transportation.  The number of buses arriving and departing was staggering, and the exhaust pollution was just as bad.  I was eager to get off the bus to clear my burning eyes.  During our two days walking the streets we did not see one other international tourist.  It’s important to note that we are also visiting during the low season.

Teatro de Santa Ana

The town has no tall buildings you might expect from a city, but does have a welcoming town square, as most towns and cities do in Central America.  Around the square sits a large gothic Cathedral, the Teatro de Santa Ana and a historic municipal palace.  We took a few photos around the square and in the church and then headed to the more vibrant market.  The market was teaming with local venders sectioned by products.  My favorite was the sausage isle, where chorizo and longaniza hung from the vender stations.  Before dawn, we headed back to our hostel, but were sure to buy some pupusas on the street before arriving.  El Salvador’s pupusas are the best in Central America.  You must be sure to enjoy the bean, cheese and pork filled tortillas.

Click to see more PHOTOS from Santa Ana, El Salvador.

Volcano National Park

Most that venture to Santa Ana do for the access to Volcano National Park (Cerro Verde).  The park boasts 3 volcanoes, Santa Ana (Ilamatepec), Izalco and Cerro Verde.  Cerro Verde is a desolate volcano with no vegetation, but offers a perfect crater.  Santa Ana is the highest volcano in El Salvador at 2,381 meters.  We decided to trek up Santa Ana because of its dramatic changing natural habitat as you reach different levels on the volcano.  First, you walk through thick forest, then colorful flower bushes and high grasses, desert plants and finally desolate rock.  The greatest image on the volcano is when you reach the top and look down to see the nuclear green boiling sulfur Lake.  The lake is believed to be 300 meters deep.  The trail is medium difficulty with the most challenging section at the end.  I wasn’t paying attention when we began our trek, but it must have been downhill for quite some time, because the last 45 minutes were uphill.  Instinctively, I just assumed the return hike was going to be all downhill, but it wasn’t.

Large Maguey Plant

The climb up was beautifully enhanced with colorful flowers and large maguey plants, but unfortunately we didn’t learn much.  This is a national park and they require visitors to hire both a guide and police escort to climb the volcanoes.  Our young guide was more concerned using his phone than walking with us.  It became frustrating for us, because as some points we had no idea where our guide was.  This was our biggest disappointment with the park.  The park was very clean and included a small shop (tienda) for light food and drinks.

From Santa Ana it’s a 2-hour bus ride (bus #248) for .90 cents.  At the park you will pay $1.00 entrance fee, $6.00 to the volcano conservation organization and $1.00 to pass private property.  The trek is well worth the money, but hopefully you will have a better guide.

Click to see more PHOTOS from Volcano Santa Ana.

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Seven Waterfalls Tour

When we decided to begin our journey in Central America, El Salvador was the country we decided to avoid.  The decision was not based on any specific reason, we simply preferred a more direct route south and planned to travel from Guatemala to Honduras to Nicaragua and onwards.  However, with Honduras’ current political instability, which is causing some border issues, we decided to take a detour through El Salvador instead.

Hotel Anahuac in Juayua

Our style of travel thus far has been extremely spontaneous; we do the research of where we are going the day before we get there.  It has worked out well so far.  As usual, we consulted our twitter followers and fellow travelers for their suggestions in El Salvador and they brought us to Hotel Anáhuac in Juayúa (don’t worry I still have some trouble pronouncing that myself).  Once again, we’ve found a gem in an unexpected place.  Juayúa is located two and half hours from the west coastal Guatemalan border.  It’s a small town in “Routa de las Flores” (a compilation of picturesque towns) with much local charm and is most widely known for their weekend food fair.  The hotel is perfect: it’s very clean, has a gorgeous open courtyard filled with tropical plants, and the room walls display varying local art.  Anáhuac also provides tours to neighboring natural attractions, one of them was the Seven Waterfalls, which we eagerly signed up for.

Our guide, Mario, met us at the hotel at eight in the morning.  He led us through the streets of town towards its outskirts where we would begin to find our way into the mountains.  Before the hike began we stopped at Mario’s house which was at the foot of our hike.  Mario and his family live in a small structure built with metal roofing and wooden logs.  His brother and five dogs accompanied us on our trek.  As we made our way up the path to Seven Waterfalls Mario explained the different plants and vegetation.  During our hike we encountered large coffee plantations where we learned about cultivating coffee and how elevation increases a coffee’s grade.  Mario told us that most of El Salvador’s high quality coffee is exported elsewhere in the world.  Only the lowest grade of coffee stays in the country.

Previous hikes have had at a minimum wooden steps or rock laid into steps to reduce difficulty and risks.  On this hike not one single portion of the trail is built up and it’s not well maintained.  There are large branches to climb over, thorn filled trees to duck under, rivers to cross, rocks to hop over, and waterfalls to repel down from.  The reward was majestic views of nature in its purest form.

Chorros de Calera

Once we arrived at the top of the mountain there was yet another large wall of waterfalls that fed a pool of fresh water where we swam.  This area was popular for the locals to picnic, however we never passed any along our hike.  We assume they take a different trek.  Unfortunately, there was quite a bit of trash around the swimming area.  Mario explained the cultural challenge of changing this problematic behavior.  Of course since Mario benefits from tourism directly, he is able to see the benefit of a cleaner environment.  We all then enjoyed sandwiches filled with tomatoes, onions, avocado, eggs and salt and pepper.  They were probably some of the most refreshing simple subs I have ever had.  As we ate, the local families were jumping from small rocky cliffs into the water.  Jason eyed the possibility of jumping from the waterfall.  Mario escorted him up to a rock that stood out slightly from the wall.  He jumped and softly hit the sand in the bottom of the pool.  Next, Mario climbed about another 2.5 meters up the wall and dove head first into the shallow pool.  As he entered the water he curled his body immediately to avoid being paralyzed.  It was very impressive.  Along the hike Mario also explained to us that there were tunnels or caves we could explore.  Once at the pools we realized they were man made tunnels bored for sending the water to a hydro station.  At first I was up for it, but when we got to the opening of the tunnel and I watched Mario go in first, I decided to back out.  It was very dark, the water came to his chest and there was hardly any head room.  I knew Jason wanted to do it; I told him I would wait for them at the opening.  After they returned and heard about their adventure, I was jealous.

Seven Waterfalls Tour

Just as we began to pack up for our return, clouds rushed into the valley at our elevation and suddenly we were engulfed in clouds full of mist.  The scene of the clouds squeezing into the valley seemed very Jurasic Park.  It wasn’t a slow process, the clouds came in fast at five miles per hour.  I still carry this scene in my mind.  We could hear heavy rain hitting the leaves of all the trees in the valley, but we didn’t see or feel any on us.  I can only assume it was raining below.  We arrived back at Mario’s home where he changed again into jeans and a clean shirt to walk us back through town to our hostel.  You won’t find any locals wearing shorts in the streets of El Salvador.  The rain did end up catching up to us on our walk through town, but it felt rather refreshing.

Although we’ve already been on a few hikes during this trip, the hike to the Seven Waterfalls was still unique due to its primitive trails, abundance of rivers and waterfalls and varying terrain.  The trek was not difficult from an endurance perspective, but it was a hike that required a lot of focus and caution.  It’s muddy, wet, slippery, itchy and wonderfully adventurous.  Juayua is a must see in El Salvador, and the Seven Waterfalls hike is their hidden gem.

Streets of Juayua, El Salvador

When Mario isn’t conducting tours to the Seven Waterfalls he is looking for work doing odd jobs in construction, harvesting and anything else he can find.  We kept him busy over the next few days, since we highly recommended the tour to every traveler that wandered into the hostel.  You can book the 7 waterfalls tour by contacting Mario’s family in advance at douglas.martinez1203@gmail.com.  I set up an email account for them and taught them how to access their mail.  Mario and his brother’s William and Douglas were the kindest of people and we encourage you to enjoy their tours and company.  (They speak Spanish only, so please email in Spanish as well.)

Click to see more PHOTOS from 7 Waterfalls Tour.

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Streets of Panajachel

We arrived in Panajachel, one of the towns surrounding Lake Atitlan on Saturday morning. The drive was about two and half hours northwest of Antigua. Our shuttle dropped us off at the main street just before the lake’s port. Before the driver had a chance to bring the vehicle to a complete stop, boatmen were on the roof of the van eager to help get the backpacks down. As the group of tourists got off the bus we all claimed our packs from the men who were tossing them down at us. While one man was chucking the bags, two others were offering boat rides across the lake. They named all the surrounding towns so quickly with just one breath making it sound as if it was just one long name. Then another man was offering a tuk-tuk ride to our hostel. It all felt a bit chaotic.

I asked one of them if he knew were The Jungla Hostel was. With hesitation, he said, “It’s on the other side of the lake.” Jason looked at me, I looked at him. I politely thanked the men and our group of four (Jason, Paulina, Andy and I) walked away to separate ourselves from all of the confusion. We gathered our things, strapped on our backpacks and walked on. I remembered passing a travel agency just a couple of blocks back, so we headed in that direction in hopes of finding our hostel.

Boat Dock in Panajachel

There was a man behind the counter; I asked if he knew where La Jungla Hostel was. He picked up the phone and called someone. “Walk down just a few blocks, a man will be at the corner waiting for you,” he told us after hanging up the phone. We walked. As we reached a corner, a man asked, “Paulina?” The reservations were under Paulina’s name, this was our guy, and his name was Jorge. He tried to explain with hand signals where the hostel was, “It’s about a ten minute walk from here,” he said. He took a look at our load with some concern. We were each carrying two backpacks; one large one on our backs and a loaded day pack on our chest. The four of us were Okay with walking but he insisted on driving us. We followed him to a tiny 2-door car. “No bus?” He explained that it was his car and he was personally driving us. We shoved all the backpacks into the trunk, which was never going to close. Then we all squeezed into the car with our daypacks. It was very awkward, but we arrived safely to our hostel. We were very grateful.

Jorge ran the travel agency that manages La Jungla. After chatting with him for bit and comparing prices on tours around Panajachel, we decided as a group to climb to the top of Volcano San Pedro, which is just a 45 minute boat ride across the lake. We paid $15 per person for round trip boat ride and a pick up truck to take us to the volcano park entrance. The entrance fee was $12.30 per person. Later we realized had we negotiated our own rate with the boatmen at the dock, we could have saved about $10 each. Lesson learned. We scheduled our climb for the next morning.

The day of our hike started bright and early with a wake up time of 5:30am. We caught the first communal boat out of Panajachel and headed to San Pedro. After an hour boat ride we disembarked and walked up a few steep streets to meet our land transportation. We hopped in the back of a pick-up truck for a short but bumpy ride up the mountain to the park entrance. After paying our entrance fee and being introduced to our Spanish speaking guide we began our three hour hike up the volcano.

Just like beauty, adventure, is in the eyes of the beholder.

Crew Climbing Volcano San Pedro

After just ten minutes of trekking through muddy terrain and stepping up what seemed like endless, steep and rocky steps, we began to sweat and breathe heavily. Our guide on the other hand was completely dry and breathing at the same rhythm as he was when we were first introduced to him. I asked him if he was tired, he said “I get a little tired sometimes, but not too much. We are all used to this though.” The guides climb to the top about three to four times a week during the current low season.

After a half hour into our hike we all looked at our watches and just couldn’t imagine another two and a half hours of this. Still, I kept in close pace with our guide, Jose. Jason, Paulina and Andy were not far behind. Although I was able to keep up with Jose, I will admit I was aching the entire way. My legs were pleading with me not to take another step; my feet were demanding for a moment of rest. I just grabbed on tightly to my walking stick to assist me with some of the steeper rocks and continued up that volcano. I gripped the stick so tightly that I actually gave myself a blister on my right hand.

The View of Lake Atitlan

Putting aside the physical difficulty of the hike, the density of the jungle made it even more unpleasant to be there. Every five minutes I found myself either swatting at the buzzing noises in my ears, smacking the flies, gnats, and other mini bugs away from my face or twitching my head after feeling something land in my hair. Through the pain, the annoyances, and the heat we all continued, we carried on strong, for we were determined to climb up to the top of that unforgiving volcano.

We continued because we were on an adventure.

Every so often, I’d ask Jason how he was doing. His new boots were not broken in before this hike and he developed a large and painful blister on his left heel putting the tiny wound on my hand to shame.

Jason relaxing after hike

When we reached the top, we stood at 3,020 meters on a volcano that has been dormant for thousands of years. We were overlooking a large body of water that is surrounded by lush green mountains and three other volcanoes; we were witnessing one of the best views in Guatemala and we had the best seat in the house. After just five minutes of sitting and resting, we forgot all about our trek up and realized we had never felt such peace, just sitting there taking it all in. While laying on a rock, the sun lightly warmed our skin and then a calm breeze cooled us softly. A great feeling of accomplishment kept us company at the top of volcano San Pedro.

Forty-five minutes later we began our descent. This brought a different kind of challenge for us all. Not only were we now using different leg muscles, but our balance was truly put to the test. The rocks, logs, and ground were extremely slippery. Each step brought a threat of slipping and falling right on our bottom. And we did fall, some more often than others. Jose however, he never fell.

Click to see more PHOTOS from Climbing Volcano San Pedro

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