Walking the Streets of Panajachel

I was asked if Guatemala is safe by another traveler while hanging out in a hostel in Argentina.  And let’s be honest, Guatemala is much less developed than Argentina, so it’s a legitimate question.  It’s not the first time we have been asked about traveling in Guatemala, although the questions did usually come up when we were in South America.  You don’t get asked such a question in Central America, mostly because all those countries are relatively the same in terms of safety and infrastructure less Costa Rica.

This is a very difficult question to answer, not because I think Guatemala is unsafe, but rather because the answer is an opinion.  When speaking about travel safety, you want to hear facts or concrete evidence to squabble your fears.  The only evidence I have is that Aracely and I traveled most of Guatemala for over a month and were never knowingly in danger.  I am not asking you to make a judgement on the safety of traveling in Guatemala based on our experience alone, however all I can share is our experience.

Walking the Streets of Antigua

Guatemala was the first country we visited on this backpacking journey and the most underdeveloped country I had ever been to.  I should clarify by saying, I have never really traveled much beyond western nations.  I was nervous.  We were carrying a few thousand dollars worth of equipment and I not only had to worry about myself, but I felt responsible for Aracely’s safety too.

Domingo's Restaurant in Flores

We had heard prior to visiting Guatemala that Guatemala City was very dangerous.  Specifically, bus robberies and bus jackings were common by gangs.  We made no plans to visit the city.  When we arrived there by plane, we hopped on a shuttle bus to Antigua, “Gringo Town.”

Antigua is the backpacking mecca of Guatemala.  All the amenities you are used to exist here including WiFi, bars, dance clubs, laundry facilities, cafes, fast food chains, restaurants and major banks.  If you can’t find something ask another Gringo or the Tourist Police.  I think Antigua is the perfect place to get your feet wet as a backpacker.

Chicken Buses of Antigua

Antigua is usually the base camp for visiting other nearby attractions such as Lake Atitlan, Xela, Monterrico Beach, Semuc Champey or even Tikal.  Tourists usually take shuttle buses around the country, but Chicken Buses (old American school buses) are available for the more daring.  More daring in the sense that you really need to speak Spanish, be willing to travel slower and hope that you can figure out how to get from one destination to the other.  The shuttle buses will take you directly to your destination.

While staying in Antigua, we did meet travelers that visited Guatemala City during the day for some sightseeing.  They described it as any other major city, and had no bad experiences.  We also were there when our hostel maid received a phone call that her sister was just hit and mugged while picking up her paycheck in the city.  It’s all about experiences and what you may have heard.  We decided to go bowling in the city one night.  A bunch of us rented a private shuttle bus and all went well.

Backpacks Stored in the Back of the Bus

There are many volcanoes to climb in Guatemala and some have had a history of bandit attacks.  Bandits are looking to rob you and possibly harm you.  It’s very easy to avoid such treks.  Just listen to the advice from tour agencies and hike volcanoes that are national parks.  The tour agencies are always trying to request the government turn more volcanoes into national parks, but it’s a slow process.  Once a national park, rangers patrol the area for your safety.

• Tikal National Park
• Climbing Volcano San Pedro
• Active Volcano Pacaya
• Monterrico Beach Guatemala

It may take some time getting used to seeing armed guards patrol everything from gas stations to jewelry stores.  These aren’t your everyday mall cops, these guys all carry shotguns.  It’s a bit intimidating, however that is what they are going for.

The people of Guatemala are kind, the country is explored by few and the adventures are endless.  You won’t find roped walkways and concrete steps on your hike to Semuc Champey.  You will find yourself saying, “This wouldn’t be legal in my country.”  But, this is what makes it so exciting.

Streets of Panajachel

This article isn’t intended to persuade you to avoid Guatemala City, chicken buses or volcanoes that aren’t national parks.  We are just suggesting alternatives if you want to play it safe.  However, the best way to be safe is to be smart.  Don’t carry things in pockets that can be easily pick pocketed.  Try to make friends and travel in groups.  Always be aware of your surroundings.  These are things that Aracely and I do in every country we visit.

I think Guatemala is special.  I know this because every time Aracely and I are asked about it, we light up and explain how much fun we had while traveling there.

View PHOTOS of Guatemala.

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Post tags: antigua guatemala, blogsherpa, Central America, Guatemala, safety

Monterrico Beach

Monterrico is located just two hours west of Antigua on the Pacific coast, but the elevation change is enough to make the temperature difference very noticeable; it increases approximately 20 degrees Fahrenheit. We arrived to Johnny’s Place where we had reservations for 2 nights. The hotel is set right on the beach with beautiful views from the bar, lounge and dining areas. The coconut tree grounds are well kept with many hammocks surrounding the pools and beachfront lounges. Monterrico Beach is mostly known for its black volcanic sand and sea turtle breeding program. The sand is unique in color, but too hot to walk on during the day without sandals. For Aracely and I the really cool feature of Johnny’s is the life size chessboard complete with 3-foot tall pieces in the courtyard. Johnny’s Place offers bungalows, private cabins, and a dorm room that are all reasonably priced.

Jason in the Ocean

The town of Monterrico is small, but doesn’t fall short of restaurants and dance clubs. The beach is more visited by Guatemalans than tourists, which provides a more realistic glimpse into their culture. We weren’t able to find Internet access in town, but it’s a beach and you should be there to relax anyway. Several tour guides offer early morning canoe rides through the mangroves.

The ocean waters were extremely rough during our visit, with 10-foot waves breaking in 2-foot deep water. A steep decline on the beach leads to the water’s edge causing strong undertows, which make for dangerous swimming. However, Jason loves the ocean and a challenge, so of course he dove right in. He actually conquered a few waves, but not without being pounded and tossed around a few times.

Children Playing Soccer on the Sand

Our 2 days in Monterrico were spent sitting by the bar, soaking up the sun and staring at the sea with drinks in hand. After baking in the sun for a couple hours we would jump in the pool to cool off for a bit. Then, we rested in the hammocks and walked the beach in the afternoons. After the sand had cooled, local children and adults congregated in front of Johnny’s to play soccer and volleyball on the beach; they take it very seriously too. Jason and I really enjoyed watching them play, and knew our place well, as spectators only. One of my favorite moments was watching a beautiful sunset over the ocean, which we were lucky enough to capture with our cameras. We also had the opportunity to observe 75 recently hatched turtles make their way to their new home in the ocean. Totugario (Sea Turtle Hatchery) breeds the baby sea turtles and releases them into the ocean.

Monterrico Sunset

For Budget Travelers

If you are on a budget then go to Monterrico Beach. Guatemala is a cheap country in general and Monterrico is still underdeveloped for a beach town. You won’t find nice tourist shops selling souvenirs, fancy restaurants or beachfront hotels. Monterrico is a bare bones destination spot for locals from Antigua and Guatemala City. Grab a plastic chair, order a Gallo beer and something to eat at the beer gardens that line the main paved avenue. You can find cerviche being sold on the street and free bonfires outside bars late at night.

Click to see more PHOTOS from Monterrico Beach.

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Post tags: beach sunsets, black sand beaches, blogsherpa, Central America, Guatemala, HD video, monterrico beach guatemala, travel video, turtle breeding

During our visit to Antigua Guatemala, we were fortunate enough to experience the celebration of Guatemala’s independence from Spain on September 15th.  For weeks leading up to Independence Day, we were woken up by bands practicing from all the schools in town.  For schools it’s a time to shine and show their school’s spirit by being awarded the best band.

Celebrations start early and bands begin marching all throughout town strutting their stuff to the cadence of banging drums.  Eventually the marching bands make their way to the center of town and parade around the plaza in front of local judges.  It looked like a dance off with instruments as bands competed to out perform each other.

Young kids run all around town blowing whistles as they carry the torch representing their independence from Spain.  This is a newer tradition that has caught on recently and continues to expand each year.

Several countries from Central America claimed their independence on the same day of September 15, 1821.

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Post tags: antigua guatemala, Central America, central america marching bands, culture video, Guatemala, guatemala independence day, HD video, latin marching bands, Travel Videos

KanBa Caves courtesy of semucchampey.com

Like our visit to Semuc Champey, we had no idea what we were getting into prior to leaving for our tour.  This point is echoed throughout most of our Guatemalan journeys.  The KanBa Caves are only a short walk from the metal bridge that spans Cahabón River.

After paying the entrance fee to the owner of the caves and the Inn Posada Las Marias, you meet the guide for the adventure.  The guides are provided by the cave’s administration and you don’t have a choice.  Each guide has a good understanding of the caves structure and hidden surface.  This is important when you find yourself swimming in a cave with the potential to kick hidden rocks lurking below.

Each person is provided a single white candle about 4 inches long.  Next, you are led up steep steps into the large opening of the cave.  We entered the cave at ankle deep water and paused to light our primitive flashlights, or candles.  The water came from our ankles, to our knees, to our waist and eventually to our chest.  We all held our candles high in a sad attempt to further brighten our way.

• Video #6 – Climbing Active Volcano Pacaya
• Discover Montericco Beach, Guatemala
• Video #4 – Tikal National Park
• Video #2 – Climbing Volcano San Pedro

View of Semuc Champey from Mirador

The cave was masked in darkness, an exuded a creepy feeling of the unknown.  We continued to walk through the cave with varying water levels.  Occasionally our guide warned us to be careful not to bang our legs on the submerged rocks that rose up from the cave floor, but inevitably we did.

Our guide explained, “You must swim now, make sure you don’t extinguish your candle.”  “Huh,” we thought to ourselves.  You could see everyone in the group make eye contact with each other in an attempt to justify our own personal shock.  I’m not a good swimmer.  Okay, I’m not a swimmer at all and I sure can’t swim with one hand in the air.  Jason was close behind me and suggested I hold onto his neck while resting on his back.  My job became to hold the two candles in one hand while circled around his neck with the other arm.  Jason then swam with both hands, frog style across the dark pool.  Many people had wet their candles during the swim, but we all helped each other ignite them before continuing.

Reception and Restaurant of El Portal Hostal

As if we were in a small mine, different levels of the cave were connected by ladders made of thin metal pipes held together with thick bands of rubber and black electrical tape.  We had to climb these ladders, which in our minds would be a legal nightmare in the States, but I guess that is truly one of the advantages to adventures in Central America.  Narrow tunnels led to different chambers in the cave, some with still pools of water and others with rushing water falls.   The cave’s walls were decorated with stalactite and stalagmite formations.  We even had the option to climb up a waterfall and jump off a short cliff.  Yes, all this inside the cave and far away from daylight.   Jason went for it.  I on the other hand, was particularly shy and nervous in the darkness of that cave and watched in disbelief as Jason trusted his life with our guide.  He was the only one to make the jump.

The guide makes the journey fun with several surprises that we won’t disclose here.  One bit of advice is to bring a glow stick to wear around your neck.  We wish we did.  We also don’t suggest this tour for those that aren’t physically fit, since some of the ladder climbing is a bit confined and difficult.

Relaxing in Pools Semuc Champey

For Budget Travelers

Guatemala is one of the cheapest countries in Latin America, so just being there is saving money.  There is no way to avoid hiring a guide for the caves, nor would you want to.  For the more adventurous there are 2 hour, 4 hour, and 8 hour private high risk tours available in the caves, but pray it doesn’t rain.  The El Portal Hostal located at the rivers edge in Semuc Champey is a wonderful base hostel for exploring all that Semuc Champey has to offer.  If you plan to spend a few days there, choose to stay down by the river.  The hostal may be slightly more expensive, but you won’t have to pay for transportation in and out of the valley back up to Lanquin every time you want to visit.  The lodging by the river is much more connected with nature and Lanquin is not much of town anyway.  Larger and more expensive caves can be found in Lanquin, as well as whitewater rafting.

Click to see more PHOTOS of Semuc Champey or watch our HD Travel Video.

© Aracely for Two Backpackers, 2024. | VISIT OUR WEBSITE | BECOME A FAN ON FACEBOOK | FOLLOW US ON TWITTER | Permalink | 6 comments |
Post tags: blogsherpa, Central America, el portal hostel, Guatemala, hostels, kanba caves, lanquin, lanquin caves, Lodging, semuc champey, transportation, travel, travel video

I was in Antigua, Guatemala, the first stop on our 1 year travel journey.  After Aracely was feeling better, we both took the advice from those working at Base Camp Hostel and visited Mike, owner of Tatuaje Antigua (Antigua Tattoo).   Mike had been doing some incredible work on a multi-visit tattoo for Victor, who worked at the hostel we were staying at and we were impressed.  It was an easy decision to choose Antigua Tattoo.

I knew I wanted a tattoo of a burning sun with the words, “Carpe Diem.”  The struggle would be making it look masculine enough to center between the shoulder blades below the neck.   I imagine the sun as all powerful for all of nature, including me.  The heat gives me energy and the ability to live life as exciting as I can.   After making several sketches on my own, I presented the concept to Mike.  After a few days, Mike came back with an improved artistic design that Aracely and I both approved of.   I had expanded the words to include the phrase, “Carpe diem quam minimum credula postero” – “Seize the day, trusting as little as possible in the future.”   This was the entire phrase from the Latin poem by Horace.

Being my first tattoo, you would think I was a bit nervous, but considering Aracely already had one, a rose on the shoulder that she got when she was 18, I kept my manhood intact by showing no fear!

Mike finished the tattoo in 2 hours.   The results were perfect.  I got exactly what I was looking for, and now, coincidentally fit the backpacker stereotype.

The inking wasn’t done, however.  Aracely originally had her blue rose tattoo done when she was 18 and at the age of 27 it had become quite dull.  Mike took 10 minutes to redo the entire rose, and now it was colorful again.

We returned back to Base Camp Hostel with our warrior badges and shared our experiences with the other 3 that had recently been inked by Mike at Antigua Tattoo.

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Post tags: adventure, backpackers, Central America, Guatemala, HD video, tattoo, travel video

After arriving at Base Camp Hostel, we contacted our insurance provider, World Nomads Insurance, for recommendations on emergency hospitals. World Nomads put us on the phone with a nurse to first evaluate Aracely’s condition and then they suggested we go to Hospital Privado Hermano Pedro, a 24hr private hospital.

After wandering aimlessly in Antigua for 45 minutes we finally arrived at the clinic located near the Antigua bus terminal, towards the back of town. It was on the complete opposite side of town than where our hostel was.

They immediately took Aracely’s temperature and recognized she had a high fever. She was placed in a private room she was submitted to multiple blood tests. Aracely is not a fan of needles, so this was probably her worst moment. They recommended we stay overnight, monitoring the fever as they kept her hydrated and gave her large doses of antibiotics.

After 24 hours, her fever had declined and her white blood cell count was back to normal. Our care at Brother Pedro’s Private Hospital was top notch and the faculty was always very kind. We submitted our bill to World Nomads and sure enough, the reimbursement process was seamless.

Thank you World Nomads Travel Insurance and Brother Pedro’s Private Hospital (Hospital Privado Hermano Pedro) for taking care of Aracely.

© Jason for Two Backpackers, 2024. | VISIT OUR WEBSITE | BECOME A FAN ON FACEBOOK | FOLLOW US ON TWITTER | Permalink | 16 comments |
Post tags: adventure, antigua, Central America, Guatemala, HD video, hospital, sick, travel video

Volcano Pacaya at Sunrise

I’m sure the idea of camping overnight on the side of an active volcano may sound like a suicide adventure to some folks, but trust me, it sounds much more suicidal than it really is. Pacaya is one of the most active volcanoes in Latin America but its activity is not extreme enough to keep most daily visitors away. It’s proximity to Antigua makes it an ideal adventure for many travelers in Guatemala.

O.X. Outdoor Excursions is the only outfitter currently running overnight trips to Pacaya, and they organize multiple trips each week. The cost is $59 USD which includes guide, shuttle, all camping equipment, warm clothing if needed, a tasty dinner with beverages and breakfast with bagels coffee and tea.

Our tour was scheduled to meet at the Base Camp Hostel (where we were staying) at 1:30pm for a brief introduction and overview of our adventure. Our group was small; there were two German girls, Jason, our guide and myself. We headed out at 2 o’clock in the afternoon. The drive from Antigua to Pacaya’s park entrance was about an hour and half long. After paying the entrance fee our shuttle began to ascend up a steep dirt road, along the way we passed local houses, tiny stores and children playing in the street. We soon arrived at the location where our hike would begin. Our shuttle was greeted by many local children offering the passengers walking sticks for 5 Quetzales each (61 cents) to use during our hike. Everyone in our group bought one and we were all glad we did.

The Hike

Hiking Up Volcano Pacaya with Guard Dog Xela

We spent a few minutes at the entrance to use the restrooms and gather our things. Once everyone was organized we each strapped on our backpacks, grabbed a hold of our walking sticks and began our trek. Immediately after crossing the entrance there is a steep stoned walkway that leads to a dirt trail higher and higher up the mountain. The terrain was rocky, muddy and adorned with horse dung. Our tour guide was Sophie; she has extensive experience in Pacaya, having managed many tours. She knew the trails very well and described to us what laid ahead. Upon reaching the first rest stop Sophie gave our group the option of two campsites. The first, she explained, “is a true campsite with benches for us to eat our dinner but it’s an hour and a half walk to the lava. The second is a simple a spot on the side of the mountain that is only a twenty minute walk to the lava. There are no benches there.” We were expecting rain for the night; if we decided on the more comfortable campsite we would have to walk in the rain, potentially to the lava and back, which would mean a three hour walk in the rain. The group unanimously decided on the second campsite. We continued up the trail.

Pacaya Engulfed in Clouds

As we ascended further up the mountain we were engulfed by clouds of mist which collected as droplets in our hair. It was very refreshing for us, since the physical activity was overheating our bodies a bit. At times you couldn’t see more than 5 meters in front of you, and then before you realized the clouds had dissipated and it was clear again. Overall, the hike was very manageable for our group. The trail did have sections of steep inclines but they were quick and followed by flat terrain that allowed us to regain our energy and comfortably continue on. We arrived at our campsite after an hour and half of hiking. We all quickly set up camp. Jason and I had brought our own tent, but the others shared a tent provided by O.X. Soon after we erected each tent, we headed to the lava just as the sun was setting.

Feeling the Heat of Pacaya Lava

The Lava

The hike to the lava was more exciting than our hike up to the campsite. As we approached the volcano, we could see the lava glowing beautifully in the distance. We realized then that there is no better way to see an active volcano than at night. As we approached, the ground beneath us was of black sand and it turned into larger lava rocks with sharp edges as we walked. We continued up the mountain to get a closer look of the flowing lava. The climb became a bit more challenging. Now, the ground was loose and when we stepped forward our feet would sink into the ground and slide down about half the distance. It became difficult to make the least bit of progress. Determined, we continued into the darkness in the direction of the orange glow. Suddenly, we began to feel the heat of the lava that was above us. We could hear the rumbling of the burning rocks falling down the side of the volcano. We continued to hike. Finally, we arrived to a ‘safe’ spot very close to a flowing river of fire. The ground sizzled below us. One of the German girls brought sausages and Sophie had marshmallows. With a long stick that we found near our campsite we roasted them with the heat of the lava. It was a surreal experience. Shortly after, we began to feel a light rain but were not bothered by it. Sophie asked the group to not follow her; she went further up the volcano to see if there was a better view. She returned just a few short minutes later and told us that there was a great view from up top, but the climb was tricky with large sharp rocks. At this point it was pitch black with only the lava and our head lamps providing any light. We all went up to take a look at the view. After everyone had taken pictures, eaten a sausage and a marshmallow we headed back to camp.

Making Dinner in the Rain

We arrived at our campsite and Sophie began to make dinner under the light rain. We all sat around the fire talking and drinking some wine as we waited for dinner to be ready. After dinner we changed into some dry clothes and went into each of our tents.

The Next Morning

After a sleepless night of listening to wild dogs roaming around us and the wind flapping at our tent, we awoke at 4:30 am to go watch the sunrise. Everyone grabbed their walking sticks and followed Sophie up a trail that was directly above our campsite.

This too was a steep and slippery walk full of loose lava rocks that led all the way to the top of the mountain ridge. When we arrived at its peak, we had an amazing view of Pacaya and its radiant flows of lava that lit up the darkness. The group patiently waited for the sun to rise.

Sunset from A Pacaya Ridge

When it did, the lava disappeared as it was overpowered by the brightness of the sun and we all got a new appreciation of seeing the active volcano at night. The light of the day also illuminated the amazing view of three other volcanoes in the horizon: Agua, Acatenango and Fuego (the other active volcano near Antigua). The descent from the ridge was much more exciting than the climb up. It was a very tall hill of loose gravel and we all ran down laughing the entire way. We returned to our campsite for breakfast. Again, we sat around the fire and enjoyed bagels with coffee and tea. Once we were full of carbohydrates we began our trek down the mountain.

Click here to see more PHOTOS of Volcano Pacaya.

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Post tags: active volcanoes, adventure, antigua, blogsherpa, Central America, climbing volcanoes, Guatemala, HD video, ox outdoor excursions, Travel Videos, volcano pacaya, volcanoes in latin america

Finca del Paraiso Waterfall

Finca El Paraiso is a hot spring fed waterfall that falls into a cool river.  If you plan to visit Rio Dulce or Livingston in Guatemala, and want to get off the gringo trail, it’s a must see day trip.  It’s easiest to visit the waterfall from Rio Dulce.  Go to the center of town on the main road and start asking where you can catch a shuttle bus to the waterfall.  Taxi drivers will approach you and try to offer you a ride.  Be aware that the taxi drivers will lie and tell you the shuttle bus doesn’t run certain hours and is not the best way to travel to the site.  If you prefer to be comfortable and have your own vehicle and don’t mind paying 4 times as much as the shuttle bus, then book a cab.  However, if you are on a budget, take the shuttle bus and avoid cabs all together.  The shuttle bus will be packed with locals and uncomfortable, but you will save a good chunk of money.  At the time we visited the hot spring waterfall, many of the roads en route were being improved and detours slowed traffic down.

Children of Finca del Paraiso

Inform the shuttle bus driver your destination so they can alert you when you have arrived.  Walk towards the restaurant and register with the guy that approaches you.  There is a small park fee as well.  We aren’t sure where that money goes, but you are handed a receipt.  The park guy will guide you in the right direction, which leads to the woods along the river.  Many local folks live along the river and use it for it’s many resources.  As we walked along the river banks children were fishing, mothers were washing clothes and others were selling us tortillas.  Some children were raising the fish high in the air in an attempt to sell us some.  We weren’t sure what we would do with a live fish, but it was culturally entertaining.

The trail is clearly marked and after 10 minutes we arrived to the waterfall.  A park employee was present to watch over the area.  The greatest benefit for us is that everyone trusted him watching over their day packs.  The river water was cool, and the bed was rocky, but okay with bare feet as long as you were careful.  We slowly walked in and quickly swam over to the waterfall where the water warmed up.  We were unable to touch the bottom in some places, but there are large rocks to hold on to and rest against once you get under the falls.  It’s a strange feeling of hot and cold water once under the hot spring fed waterfall.

The area is small and you might find yourself quickly bored since it takes some energy to remain under the falls.  Our curiosity was brewing and we wanted to explore the source of the hot springs.  We grabbed our day packs and the guard unexpectedly informed us that we couldn’t climb up to the top with any bags or backpacks.  I wasn’t sure of the reason, but we obliged and took our cameras only.  Cameras weren’t on the restricted list of items you couldn’t take up top with you.

Bat Caves

An obvious trail leads to the top which passes some pungent bat caves.  Hold on to some roots and pass quickly.  A surprisingly small stream fed the waterfall.  This area was swarming with mosquitoes and much more dense than below.  We followed a trail that led deeper into the woods.  The trail veered off from the stream, but we were able to make our way back close to the water after a few wrong turns.  We stood at the end of the stream baffled by its insignificance.  A few bubbles appeared around us, and steam rose from the water.  I stepped in first and just about burnt my skin.  It was very hot.  After a minute of acclimating to the temperature I coaxed Aracely to get in.  Aracely has rarely found water that she couldn’t withstand, but it even felt too hot for her.  We both looked at each other and thought, “Well I guess this is it?”

After returning to the top of the waterfall we sat down and on some rocks and enjoyed the view and sound of Finca El Paraiso.  It wasn’t overly impressive, but it was a great day trip away from the city and a phenomenon that is hard to find elsewhere.

View photo gallery.

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Post tags: adventure, blogsherpa, Central America, Guatemala, HD video, hot springs, rio dulce, travel video, waterfalls

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Tikal National Park in Northern Guatemala is the largest excavated archaeological city from the Maya civilization and also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.  We climbed temples that rose over 70 meters and unexpectedly found ourselves face to face with monkeys and other rain forest wildlife.

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Post tags: adventure, Central America, Guatemala, park, ruins, travel video, unesco world heritage site

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Semuch Champey from Lookout Deck

After a long and exhausting 10 hour bus ride from Panajachel, Guatemala in a cramped shuttle bus we finally arrived in the small town of Lanquin, but without hostel reservations.  We were now traveling with Andy and Paulina, travelers from London we met a few days ago.  Our shuttle dropped us off at El Retiro Hostel where most of those that traveled in the shuttle with us were staying.  Luckily, as soon as we stepped off the van we were approached by a man who showed us pictures of El Portal.  “It’s only meters from Semuc Champey,” he said.  The pictures were of beautiful cabins in a jungle setting.  He quoted us Q40 (about $5) per person with a private bathroom.  Once we negotiated free transportation to the location we hopped in the back of his pickup truck for an exciting 20 minute ride down a winding dirt road that led us further into the depths of the Guatemalan jungle.  After traversing a wooden bridge whose loose boards jolted when the heavy truck road over them, we arrived at El Portal.

The Climb to the Lookout Tower

Semuc Champey

The next morning, with Paulina, Andy and Ari (who was also staying at the same hostel), we departed El Portal at 9:00am for our tour with our Spanish speaking guide, Toto.  Semuc Champey is a magical place offering panoramic views of natural jungle beauty.  To get there, you must take a steep 30 minute hike up natural and man made steps.  A lookout point is built into cliffs at the top of the climb.  Everyone rushed to get out their cameras for views of stunning turquoise pools and a lush green paradise.  The sight gave us a burst of energy to continue our trek for the 30 minute decline to the river’s edge.

As we neared the river, sunlight glistened off the turquoise water, making it’s way through the last remaining trees.  The entrance of the Cahabon river roars from a strong waterfall that rushes into a tunnel underneath the naturally formed limestone pools. T he water is actually crystal clear, but a turquoise color is emitted as it reflects off different types of rocks.  After taking a few pictures we were instructed by our guide that we could not take any cameras beyond this point. “You must swim your way from one end of a pool to the other end and then jump into the next pool making your way down the 300 meters just before the exit tunnel.”  He took all of our bags, handed them to native workers on the river’s edge and then led us through each pool allowing us to enjoy the scenic view and a refreshing swim.

Waterfalls of Semuc Champey

The Adventure Begins

Our guide began to tie a rope to a rock just a few steps away from the top of a waterfall. Toto gave no instructions yet; we just watched and tried to guess what was going to happen next.  It was explained to us that we each needed to repel down the waterfall by holding on tightly to the rope tied around the rock above.  One by one Toto would tap at our feet indicating which foot he wants us to move next, since it will be too loud in the waterfall for us to hear him.  “You will do this until I tell you to sit,” he continued.  Aracely descended first.  It took about ten steps down with heavy water splashing on my head before he yelled out, “Sientate (sit).”  She sat, and found myself sitting behind the rock wall of the waterfall she just repelled down.

It was a large beautiful cave with stalactite formations everywhere.  After looking around we asked ourselves, “How are we going to get out of here?”  Toto began to tie yet another rope.  This time he tied it to the stalagmite formations and threw the rope into a narrow opening which led down further near the rushing river below.  “You have to crawl your way through this narrow hole while holding on tightly to the rope.  When you get to the other side lay down on your stomach and let yourself slide down the rock slowly.”  Aracely went first and we soon followed.  We were now looking at the exit tunnel of the Cahabon River.   It was in great contrast to the quiet pools we just swam in.  We rested for a few minutes in this loud echoing wave crashing cave.

Tour Group at Semuc Champey

We climbed back up just above the cave, but not yet through the waterfall we previously repelled.  We had two options at this point.  We could jump 12 meters (40 feet) down from this cliff or climb back up the waterfall.
Before he fully finished his sentence he launched himself into the air down to the river.  From below he waived his hand at us, inviting us to join him.  We all stared at each other in disbelief that our guide just left us.  Ari, Andy and I jumped.  Paulina and Aracely climbed up the waterfall.  The guys originally tried to entice the girls to jump, but once we climbed back up to the top we were relieved they didn’t.  The climb back up didn’t involve any ropes or assistance, and as Andy put it bluntly, “I didn’t think I was going to make it… alive.”

After an eventful morning, we headed back to El Portal for lunch. Aracely and I had a second tour booked for that afternoon.  We explored the KanBa Caves.

Click to see more PHOTOS of Semuc Champey

© Jason for Two Backpackers, 2024. | VISIT OUR WEBSITE | BECOME A FAN ON FACEBOOK | FOLLOW US ON TWITTER | Permalink | 18 comments |
Post tags: adventure, blogsherpa, Central America, Guatemala, travel video, waterfall

Streets of Panajachel

We arrived in Panajachel, one of the towns surrounding Lake Atitlan on Saturday morning. The drive was about two and half hours northwest of Antigua. Our shuttle dropped us off at the main street just before the lake’s port. Before the driver had a chance to bring the vehicle to a complete stop, boatmen were on the roof of the van eager to help get the backpacks down. As the group of tourists got off the bus we all claimed our packs from the men who were tossing them down at us. While one man was chucking the bags, two others were offering boat rides across the lake. They named all the surrounding towns so quickly with just one breath making it sound as if it was just one long name. Then another man was offering a tuk-tuk ride to our hostel. It all felt a bit chaotic.

I asked one of them if he knew were The Jungla Hostel was. With hesitation, he said, “It’s on the other side of the lake.” Jason looked at me, I looked at him. I politely thanked the men and our group of four (Jason, Paulina, Andy and I) walked away to separate ourselves from all of the confusion. We gathered our things, strapped on our backpacks and walked on. I remembered passing a travel agency just a couple of blocks back, so we headed in that direction in hopes of finding our hostel.

Boat Dock in Panajachel

There was a man behind the counter; I asked if he knew where La Jungla Hostel was. He picked up the phone and called someone. “Walk down just a few blocks, a man will be at the corner waiting for you,” he told us after hanging up the phone. We walked. As we reached a corner, a man asked, “Paulina?” The reservations were under Paulina’s name, this was our guy, and his name was Jorge. He tried to explain with hand signals where the hostel was, “It’s about a ten minute walk from here,” he said. He took a look at our load with some concern. We were each carrying two backpacks; one large one on our backs and a loaded day pack on our chest. The four of us were Okay with walking but he insisted on driving us. We followed him to a tiny 2-door car. “No bus?” He explained that it was his car and he was personally driving us. We shoved all the backpacks into the trunk, which was never going to close. Then we all squeezed into the car with our daypacks. It was very awkward, but we arrived safely to our hostel. We were very grateful.

Jorge ran the travel agency that manages La Jungla. After chatting with him for bit and comparing prices on tours around Panajachel, we decided as a group to climb to the top of Volcano San Pedro, which is just a 45 minute boat ride across the lake. We paid $15 per person for round trip boat ride and a pick up truck to take us to the volcano park entrance. The entrance fee was $12.30 per person. Later we realized had we negotiated our own rate with the boatmen at the dock, we could have saved about $10 each. Lesson learned. We scheduled our climb for the next morning.

The day of our hike started bright and early with a wake up time of 5:30am. We caught the first communal boat out of Panajachel and headed to San Pedro. After an hour boat ride we disembarked and walked up a few steep streets to meet our land transportation. We hopped in the back of a pick-up truck for a short but bumpy ride up the mountain to the park entrance. After paying our entrance fee and being introduced to our Spanish speaking guide we began our three hour hike up the volcano.

Just like beauty, adventure, is in the eyes of the beholder.

Crew Climbing Volcano San Pedro

After just ten minutes of trekking through muddy terrain and stepping up what seemed like endless, steep and rocky steps, we began to sweat and breathe heavily. Our guide on the other hand was completely dry and breathing at the same rhythm as he was when we were first introduced to him. I asked him if he was tired, he said “I get a little tired sometimes, but not too much. We are all used to this though.” The guides climb to the top about three to four times a week during the current low season.

After a half hour into our hike we all looked at our watches and just couldn’t imagine another two and a half hours of this. Still, I kept in close pace with our guide, Jose. Jason, Paulina and Andy were not far behind. Although I was able to keep up with Jose, I will admit I was aching the entire way. My legs were pleading with me not to take another step; my feet were demanding for a moment of rest. I just grabbed on tightly to my walking stick to assist me with some of the steeper rocks and continued up that volcano. I gripped the stick so tightly that I actually gave myself a blister on my right hand.

The View of Lake Atitlan

Putting aside the physical difficulty of the hike, the density of the jungle made it even more unpleasant to be there. Every five minutes I found myself either swatting at the buzzing noises in my ears, smacking the flies, gnats, and other mini bugs away from my face or twitching my head after feeling something land in my hair. Through the pain, the annoyances, and the heat we all continued, we carried on strong, for we were determined to climb up to the top of that unforgiving volcano.

We continued because we were on an adventure.

Every so often, I’d ask Jason how he was doing. His new boots were not broken in before this hike and he developed a large and painful blister on his left heel putting the tiny wound on my hand to shame.

Jason relaxing after hike

When we reached the top, we stood at 3,020 meters on a volcano that has been dormant for thousands of years. We were overlooking a large body of water that is surrounded by lush green mountains and three other volcanoes; we were witnessing one of the best views in Guatemala and we had the best seat in the house. After just five minutes of sitting and resting, we forgot all about our trek up and realized we had never felt such peace, just sitting there taking it all in. While laying on a rock, the sun lightly warmed our skin and then a calm breeze cooled us softly. A great feeling of accomplishment kept us company at the top of volcano San Pedro.

Forty-five minutes later we began our descent. This brought a different kind of challenge for us all. Not only were we now using different leg muscles, but our balance was truly put to the test. The rocks, logs, and ground were extremely slippery. Each step brought a threat of slipping and falling right on our bottom. And we did fall, some more often than others. Jose however, he never fell.

Click to see more PHOTOS from Climbing Volcano San Pedro

© Jason for Two Backpackers, 2024. | VISIT OUR WEBSITE | BECOME A FAN ON FACEBOOK | FOLLOW US ON TWITTER | Permalink | 3 comments |
Post tags: adventure, blogsherpa, Central America, Guatemala, hiking, lake atitlan, panajachel, san pedro, travel video, volcanoes

Shoe Shining Boy

Although those trips were relatively short and touristy, I feel as though I did get a glimpse, as small as it was, of the culture, people, and economic situation of those countries.  One notable and emotionally memorable observation for me was seeing children begging in the streets.  After spending twenty years living in the United States this is not something we are accustomed to seeing, or at least we can agree that it’s an extremely rare occurrence.

After visiting six towns in twenty-one days, I have yet to see one child begging in the streets of Guatemala.  I have only seen them working and they are all working very hard.  To clarify, when I say children I mean children of all ages from 4 and 5 year olds to pre-teens and up, all working.  They are selling everything from hand made bracelets, to hair products, to food; they are offering services from shoe shining to hair braiding.  With or without the help of an adult, these children are able to create honorable work out of the few resources they have.  I find that extremely impressive.

Girl Selling Candy

At such a tender age they have mastered the art of negotiating, up selling, customer service and can even calculate complex equations in their head.  One little girl offered me coconut macaroons at 5 Quetzales (about .61 cents) each but I only had a 10 Q bill.  She quickly told me to take two.  Another little boy was selling lychee at 12 for 10Q.  I asked how much he would give me for 5Q.  He put 6 in a bag and one in my hand.  “For the road,” he said.  He didn’t miss count; he was providing me good customer service.

Just out of curiosity, I did a little bit of research on per capital GDP (a debatable indicator but we won’t get into that right now) of the countries I mentioned to see how they ranked.  The results are illustrated in the table below.

Source: http://data.un.org/

Guatemala actually has the lowest GDP of them all and it’s the country where I have not seen a single child begging.  I am not implying any economic trends of any sort, nor am I claiming to know all of the poverty issues of Guatemala or any country, because I don’t.  Most importantly, I don’t mean to offend any child, man or woman that does or has begged.  All I want to do is give credit to the hardworking children of Guatemala.  You might have seen children begging in the streets, but I haven’t; I have only seen them working very hard.

© Aracely for Two Backpackers, 2024. | VISIT OUR WEBSITE | BECOME A FAN ON FACEBOOK | FOLLOW US ON TWITTER | Permalink | 9 comments |
Post tags: antigua, Central America, child labor, children, culture, Guatemala

Miles traveled: 250 miles

Hours in a bus: 21

Unidentified Criter #1 found in our bathroom

Number of hostels stayed in: 4—The hostels we’ve stayed in have been quite nice and comfortable.  El Portal in Semuc Champey was the most picturesque, but the walls of the bungalows are not sealed from the outside so you are guaranteed to sleep with a few critters.

Things lost: 3—Clothes liner, carabineer and pillow case.  We forgot them in Semuc Champey.

Mosquito bites: Aracely 13; Jason 0—I came to the conclusion that mosquitoes don’t bother Jason because he’s got hairy legs.

Cold showers: 2—I have been pleasantly surprised with shower water temperature.  Shower water pressure on the other hand, has been very low most of the time.

Stomach problems: 1—We’ve been eating almost anything and Jason has been using the Steri-pen to purify the water.  We both have been successful in staying fairly healthy so far.

Jason's Gigantic Blister

Blisters: 3—Jason has a really bad blister on his left heel and a smaller one on his right, he got them both climbing Volcano San Pedro.  I got one on my right hand from holding a tight grip of my hiking stick during the same hike.

Number of falls: Aracely 4.5, Jason 9. Our hike to Volcano San Pedro was not only a very difficult one but a very slippery one too.  Everyone in our group slipped and sat on their bottoms at least twice.  Jason took the record with 9 total falls, 4 on the way up, 5 on the way down.  The only person who didn’t fall during that hike was our guide.  I took 3.5 spills on Volcano San Pedro (the .5 is for a slip that I was able to save and not sit on my bottom) and 1 at Semuc Champey.

Pictures Taken: Over 300. Guatemala is a beautiful country and we can’t help ourselves but to take pictures of everything.  However, we have been going back and only keeping the good ones.  We don’t need 10 shots of the same mountain, just one great one.

© Aracely for Two Backpackers, 2024. | VISIT OUR WEBSITE | BECOME A FAN ON FACEBOOK | FOLLOW US ON TWITTER | Permalink | 19 comments |
Post tags: backpacking, Central America, Guatemala, lists