Two Backpackers

Semuc Champey

| by Aracely on September 9th, 2024 | 8 Comments » | Adventures, Central America, Guatemala

After a long and exhausting 10 hour bus ride from Panajachel, Guatemala we finally arrived in the small town of Lanquin, but without hostel reservations.  We were now traveling with Andy and Paulina, travelers from London we met a few days ago.  Our shuttle dropped us off at El Retiro Hostel where most of those that traveled in the shuttle with us were staying.  Luckily, as soon as we stepped off the van packed with tourists, we were approached by a man who showed us pictures of El Portal.  “It’s only meters from Semuc Champey,” he said.  “And a fifteen minute pickup truck ride from where you are right now.”  The pictures were of beautiful cabins in a jungle setting.  He quoted us Q40 (about $5) per person with a private bathroom.  Once we negotiated free transportation to the location we hopped in the back of his pickup truck for an exciting ride down a winding dirt road that led us further into the depths of the Guatemalan jungle.  After traversing a wooden bridge whose loose boards jolted when the heavy truck road over them, we arrived at El Portal.

Semuc Champey

The next morning, with Paulina, Andy and Ari (who was also staying at the same hostel), we departed El Portal at 9:00am for our tour with our Spanish speaking guide, Toto.  Semuc Champey is a magical place offering panoramic views of natural jungle beauty.  To get there, you must take a steep 30 minute hike up natural and man made steps in a jungle setting.   A lookout point is built into cliffs at the top of the climb.  A rest is well deserved at this point, but everyone rushed to get out their cameras for views of stunning turquoise pools and a lush green paradise.  The sight gave us a burst of energy to continue our trek for the 30 minute decline to the river’s edge.

As we neared the river, sunlight glistened off the turquoise water, making it’s way through the last remaining trees.  The entrance of the Cahabon river roars from a strong waterfall that rushes into a tunnel underneath the naturally formed limestone pools.The water is actually crystal clear, but a turquoise color is emitted as it reflects off different types of rocks.  After taking a few pictures we were instructed by our guide that we could not take any cameras beyond this point.  “You must swim your way from one end of a pool to the other end and then jump into the next pool making your way down the 300 meters just before the exit tunnel.”  I translated to Andy, Paulina, and Jason.  He took all of our bags, handed them to native workers on the river’s edge and then led us through each pool allowing us to enjoy the scenic view and a refreshing swim.

The Adventure Begins

The real adventure is just beginning.  Our guide started to tie a rope to a rock just a few steps away from the top of a waterfall.  Toto gave no instructions yet; we just watched and tried to guess what was going to happen next.  It was explained to us that we each needed to repel down the waterfall by holding on tightly (emphasis on tightly) to the rope tied around the rock above.  One by one Toto would tap at our feet indicating which foot he wants us to move next, since it will be too loud in the waterfall for us to hear him.  “You will do this until I tell you to sit,” he continued.  I went down first.  I have a little bit of experience at rock climbing, but I’ve never repelled down a rock wall with water pounding over my face and head.  This was a first.  It took about ten steps down before he yelled out, “Sientate (sit).”  I sat, and found myself sitting behind the rock wall of the waterfall I just repelled down.  It was a large beautiful cave with stalactite formations everywhere.  After looking around I asked myself, “How are we going to get out of here?”  As promised, he went back up for the others one by one, and I absorbed the gravity of what just happened.  After everyone made it down the first waterfall Toto began to tie yet another rope.  This time he tied it to the stalagmite formations and threw the rope into a narrow opening which led down further into the cave near the river below.  His instructions were as follows: “You have to crawl your way through this (he pointed) while holding on tightly to the rope.  When you get to the other side lay down on your stomach and let yourself slide down the rock slowly.”  I went first and the others soon followed.  We were now looking at the exit tunnel of the Cahabon River.  It was in great contrast that we watched water rushing out and spilling violently further down the river underneath the quiet pools we just swam in.  After our guide explained to us what we were witnessing he told us we had to climb back up the same small opening we came in.  Once we all made it back up to our previous location, the one underneath the first waterfall, we each had a decision to make.  Toto explained, “You have two options to get back up.  You can jump 12 meters (40 feet) down from this cliff or pull yourself back up the waterfall you repelled down.”

Before he fully finished his sentence he launched himself into the air and down to the water 40 feet beneath us.  From below he waived his hand at us, inviting us to join him.  We all looked at each other.  Jason, Ari and Andy jumped.  Paulina and I climbed up the waterfall.  The guys originally tried to entice us to jump, but once they climbed back up to the top they explained how relieved they were that we didn’t.  Apparently, the climb back up for them didn’t involve any ropes or assistance.  Andy put it bluntly, “I didn’t think I was going to make it… alive.”

After an eventful morning, we headed back to El Portal for lunch.  Jason and I had a second tour booked for the afternoon.  We went to Las Marias Caves.

Las Marias Caves

This was a different type of experience filled with just as much excitement.  Like our visit to Semuc Champey, we had no idea what we were getting into prior to leaving for our tour.  This point is echoed throughout our Guatemalan journeys.  It was only a short walk from El Portal to the entrance of Las Marias Caves.  After paying our fee, each person was given a white candle about 4 inches long.  Our guide led our group up steep steps into the large opening of the cave.  As we entered, we lit our candles and the felt water at our feet slowly rise.  The water came from our ankles, to our knees, to our waist and up to our chest.  We all held our candles high in a sad attempt to further brighten our way.  The cave was masked in darkness, an exuded a feeling of the unknown.  Our tour guide explained that 2 hour, 4 hour, and 8 hour tours are available.  We continued to walk in water.  Every so often our guide warned us to be careful not to bang our legs on the submerged rocks that rose up from the cave floor, but we did.  Then, he turned to us and said, “You must swim now, make sure you don’t put out your candle.”  What?  I’m not a good swimmer.  Okay, I’m not a swimmer and I sure can’t swim with one hand in the air.  My candle flame was extinguished quickly.   Jason was close behind me and he told me to grab onto him as I’m sure he knew how nervous I was.  Different levels of the cave were connected by ladders made of thin metal pipes held together with thick bands of rubber and black electrical tape.   Narrow tunnels led to different chambers in the cave, some with still pools of water and others with rushing water falls.  The cave’s walls were decorated with stalactite and stalagmite formations.  We even had the option to climb up a waterfall and jump off a short cliff.  Yes, all this inside the cave and far away from daylight.  Jason went for it all.  I on the other hand, was particularly shy and nervous in the darkness of that cave.

By far Semuc Champey has been the most memorable adventure yet.

Click to see more photos from Semuc Champey.

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Tags: Adventures, caves, Central America, Guatemala, Semuc Champey, Waterfalls

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